Sagrada Familia

For the first time in a few weeks I slept without ear plugs.  One of the staples of the Camino commuity.  It was nice.  The place I have is a suite and I have a small kitchenette.  Stopped at a "Supermarcado" and picked up a few things for breakfast so that I can control the time.  it's amazing how far 5 Euro will go in the supermarket!  Breakfast will be some pre-made waffles with jam (I don't think the Spanish have maple syrup or mustard for that matter), orange juice and an apple.  Bought some mixed nuts/seeds for my trek home.

The night before, I purchased a ticket to get into the Sagrada Familia, one of the most visited churches in the world (yes even if you include the Vatican).  The architect was a man named Antoni Gaudi who has designed a number of churches (some I saw on the Camino).  But his greatest work is the Sagrada Familia found in Barcelona.  The structure is hard to describe.  It' a mixture of a number of different architectural styles as well as original designs by Gaudi.  My ticket was for 1:00 PM, so I had time to go for a walk in the morning.  

I am going to have to wean myself off of the walking (put on 17 Km's today), because it because such a ritual while on the Camino.  I noted there was a shopping center

within about 3 Km's so I decided to head over there.  A nice warmup before breakfast.  When I got in the place I was a little shocked.  Not what I've been used to over the past few weeks.  Although I sent this picture of my wife and she noted that this was HER kind of Camino!  Wandered around to see what kind of stuff.  Modern.  Same stuff that we have in a lot of cases.  Wandered through the Watch section.  Found one that now commemorates the completion of the Camino.

Next I grabbed a taxi to go the Sagrada Familia.  Made it in and had a self guided tour (in English of course).  Here are a few shots of the magnificent structure:

Once I was done there, I decided to head for the beach.  How could one go to Barcelona and NOT go to the beach and put my feet in the Ballarat Sea?  I walked to the beach and found a great spot.  Removed my shirt and used it to lie on.  Made sure I turned over every now and then - one would not want to burn and then have to sit on an airplane for a long time with significant discomfort.  Here's a few pictures from the beach:

You can see the toenail that turned black

Had a quick bite to eat from a restaurant just off the beach.  Wish my wife were here to enjoy this with me.  Next time I come to Europe, I know she'll be with me.

Heading home tomrrow.  Not necessarily looking forward to the long flight - but definitely looking forward to getting home to the family.  I think I'm on Pancake duty on Saturday morning!

Buen Camino 

Curt

Thoughts on the Camino

Unusually Quiet Street in Santiago

I just arrived in Barcelona after a 13 hour train ride across the country.  While on the train I had some time to think about the journey I just undertook - Walking 300 Km's across Spain.  Here are my thoughts on the experience:

The train that I am on heading to Barcelona just reached Leon in about 4.5 hours; a feet that took me 15 days walking.  Why would anyone walk across Spain?  I have been asking myself that very question for a number of days now, and I still don't seem to have an answer.  Even after actually doing it.  When you ask a mountain climber, why they climb a mountain, sometimes the answer you get is, "because it's there".  Maybe that's why I went to do the Camino, because it was there.  Because of

Train Station - Santiago 

the history of Pilgrims who have done it before me.  I can't imagine what it would have been like to accomplish the journey 1000 years ago.  How would you know where you are? Or even going in the right direction for that matter (I guess they were better at following the sun that I am).  I mean - when I really wanted to know where I was, I pulled out my phone, fired up Google Maps and turned on my GPS.  Voila!  That's where I am.  

What I have discovered is that the Camino is a metaphor for life itself.  Life is a journey.  We all start in different places, walk at different paces and are distracted by different things along the way.  Some of us get injured on the journey and may have to stop and rest.  Others are injured too badly and have to quit. The hills slow some people down whereas they are a challenge to others.  Going downhill may actually be more painful than going up.  There are places where the path is rocky and hard to navigate and other places where you are walking on the pavement.  Sometimes you walk on cobblestone, and have to be careful not to twist an ankle and other times it's soft, flat well trodden dirt.  Occasionally you are out in the open and able to see in all directions and others you are shrouded by trees or rock walls of the mountain passes.  There are times when the sun is beating down on you and you are searching for the next water fountain, and yet again you might be getting drenched by rain.  The wind may blow or it may be calm.  You may be alone, with one or two others, or around a group of people.  You may be in a hurry to get to your next destination or you may be walking at a leisurely pace, enjoying every bit of scenery.  You may feel tired and almost as though you cannot go on, or you might be energized and raring to go.  Your feet may hurt, you may smell bad and/or your clothes may be dirty; or you are high stepping, newly showered and freshly pressed.  You may be comtemplative, thinking about something along your journey, or you may have your headphones in listening to your favorite song, oblivious to your surroundings and those around you.  You may want to to chat with those around you or you may want to just walk in silence.  

On the Train

This is life.  This is how most of us live our lives.  And the Camino can help you see all of this in just a few weeks (or say just over a month if you start in France).  I'm not sure that we take enough time to notice these things AS we travel through life though.  I think we get a little too distracted by the things around us and we don't really evaluate our lives.  We don't really live in the moment.  On the Camino, you have not choice but to live in the moment.  If your feet hurt - well suck it up butter cup - you are going to have to walk to the next village; that last 7 Km's isn't going to walk itself.  I hope this is one of the things that I do better from now on - and that is living IN the moment.  Experiencing things to their fullest - as they happen.  I don't want to be rushed.  I better re-phrase that - I won't let myself be rushed.  

I've also come to another conclusion about the Camino. A conclusion that may not be popular with those who walk it without any faith in God.  And that is - the common point we are all traveling towards, our final destination, as it were, IS God.  So the push-back on this will be something like, "People of all faith's do the walk.  Even those who claim not to have one".  Sure.  Ok.  That is true.  But what is also true is the origins of this walk come from traditions steeped deeply in the Christian faith.  We're talking about the remains of St. James - one of the disciples of Jesus.  We're talking about making a journey which was believed to absolve one of their sin (not Biblical - but one could understand how this might get interpreted this way).  The Camino is the journey we all make towards God; and everything I mentioned about being distracted or not previously still applies.  As I quoted in my first blog post, "We are not human beings on a spiritual journey; but spiritual beings on a human one".  This is the Camino.  A human journey bordering on the realm of the spiritual.  Open to everyone if you are willing to do what it takes to walk it.  I've heard a number of reasons why people don't believe in God while on my journey on the Camino; and many of them make good human sense.  But, I'm not talking about human intellect when I talk about the Camino.  I'm talking about faith.  Believing in something without being able to rationalize it.  That is what faith is. It's deeply personal - like walking the Camino.

In the beginning of the Bible, it tells us that we are all made in the image of God (Gen

9:6).  If this is true - then every person who has walked the Camino has encountered God - but maybe not in a way they might expect.  You see, as I walked the Camino and encountered others, I've actually met God.  Yes, God.  I figured my encounter with God would be more like something I had happen a few months after finding out I had prostate cancer.  It was incredibly profound and I guess I would also describe it as close to supernatural without freaking people out (no - God didn't tell me to do something bizarre).  That event is worth it's own post somewhere, and I'd be happy to post it if anyone is interested.  By far, the one thing that I heard the most about the Camino from the people I talked to along the way have said stood out for them, was the interactions with the people.  I would have to say the same thing.  It was an incredible experience to weave in and out of people's Camino experience.  We laughed together.  We cried together.  We shared stories, some personal, some not.  We walked together, sharing stories of our pains (mostly our feet and the blisters or trying to find out what drugs the other was taking to keep the pain at bay [ibuprofen/Tylenol /etc.]) and our sucesses.  And because we are all made in His image - we encounter God.  Through His creation.  Through His people.  

Now, if you don't beleive in God - you might say - no you just talked to individuals - random people with no special significance.  I would disagree.  My encounter with God on the Camino was a culmination of all the people that I spent time with precisely because they were made in His image.  Weather they beleive in Him or not is irrelevant because that's exactly how God works; He works with or without your beleive (otherwise He wouldn't be God).  Of course, the door is always open to you to change your mind and take that step of faith.  It's as easy as walking the Camino.

Buen Camino 

Curt

Me with Brenda & Jim - Grateful They Let Me Join Them

A Day In Santiago

Woke up this morning and realized that I did not have to get my pack all ready and start walking again.  It may sound strange to hear this, but I almost missed it a little.  There was an issue with my room that the desk clerk mentioned yesterday so I knew that I was going to be changing rooms today.  Gave me a little practice packing up my stuff back into my backpack (not that I needed any more practice - got it down over the last two weeks).  I got up about 7:30, which is an hour later than when my alarm went off during the Camino stages.  I packed up a few things and decided to walk down to the train station so that I knew where it was.  It took only about 15 minutes to walk there as it's pretty much a straight shot from where I am (well kinda straight - if you've ever walked down those skinny roads in Europe you will know that they really are not very straight).  On my way there I passed the Provincial building (like our Legislature).  Not as nice as many of the other buildings I've seen here.  On my way back, I stopped at a small Cafe for some breakfast.  The menu had an eggs, bacon and toast option, but I've come to learn that there is no guarantee that they are serving it at that time.  Sure enough - kitchen wasn't open until 1:00.  Toast for break once again!  Stopped at a grocery store and bought and orange and some orange juice.  Handy to have in the AM to get you going.

On my way back I stopped at the square once again and took a few pictures. This first

one is of the main door of the Cathedral in Santiago De Compostela.  One can imagine how many pilgrim's have walked through those doors over the 1000 years that this has been happening.  They were very tall - had to be 25 ft. high.  There is no way you could reach the knocker on the door.  Why would they make it like that?  It kinda makes you feel small.  Maybe, that was the intention - with the thought that God is so big.  I'm not sure.









I took a few more shots as I watched a number of people wander into the square.

 Just imagine, every day, more pilgrim's wander in after completing their journey.  I heard that there are roughly 600 people a day arriving and that number continues to grow into the hight of the season.  Over a year, 200,000 Pilgrims come to Santiago.  The number is staggering when you stop to think about it.  I have been wondering what sort of economic impact the Camino has on the Spanish economy.  I can tell you I went through some pretty small villages along the way.  I bet they wouldn't survive without the Pilgrims.  The building on the right is some kind of state/government building opposite the Cathedral.  The architecture here is really something to see.







I wandered around a little more and stumbled across this interesting photo

opportunity.  The light was streaming in through the columns as a young lady stood in the sunlight having a cigarette.  I'm surprised at how many people smoke here.


















I took another picture of the famous Parador Hotel from the steps of the Cathedral.  It

doesn't look like much from the outside - but I hear it's quite ornate on the inside.  We looked it up when we were coming and the rooms that we saw were a little over 300 Euro a night.  Slightly over my price range (when you consider that my first night in Leon cost me 9 Euro).  Jeff and his girlfriend Marlene were staying here (Jeff is the other home builder I ran into on the Camino from Edmonton).




After this I headed back to my room and then out to the Pilgrim mass at the cathedral.  It was packed (standing room only) but Brenda had save me a seat.  I walked in with Brian so he and I took the bench - and then was joined by Linda, a lady from Vancouver who Brian started with at St. Jean Pierre de Port, France.  The ceremony was in Spanish and went for about an hour or so.  It ended with the monks swinging the large incense burner like you see in the movie "The Way".  I took video.  It was cool to be there for that.

Went for lunch with Dave, Shirley and Brenda and Jim.  Saw an English gent and his wife that we crossed paths with on the Camino (Stuart and Pauline) who also joined us.

After lunch - I zipped back to the hotel to get my room moved to find out that they

had moved it for me.  I'm glad I packed it all into the backpack!  My room was on the same floor - just on the other side of the hotel.  Not as nice of a view - but it works.  I needed to do some laundry, so in fine Pilgrim fashion I did my washing in the sink and assembled a couple of things to help me hang the items to dry by the open window.  I have a much greater appreciation for my washing machine at home (I think I said that a few posts ago - but I truly mean it).  Four sock, two underware, one wool shirt, and a pair of pants.  Took me about an hour to do the whole lot.  I just hope it dries before I have to pack it.  I guess if it doesn't, there is a hair dryer in y room that I could put to some use...



After completing the laundry, I took a short rest (Ciesta is something that happens every day here in Spain from about 2:00 PM to 5 or 6).  Then things open up again and the place Springs back to life.  I could get use to that.  Ran out to do a little gift shopping - which is Not my favorite past time.  I rather like knowing what I need and just slipping in and getting it - but to find something that you need to get for someone else...it just takes forever!

Completed that task and then found Brenda a Jim for our last supper together.  I'm off to Barcelona by high speed train tomorrow at 8:30 AM - and then are off to Porto, Portugal by bus.  I just love the little narrow streets you can wander down and then find a little place to stop and eat.  We had a great dinner and then left to go back to the hotel.  We said our goodbyes and hugs all around.  I'm really very thankful that they let me tag along.  It has been a very cool trip.

Packed a few things an prepared for the morning walk to the train station.  Tomorrow's train ride will be a first for me as I'm never taken a train like the before.  Looking forward to seeing the countryside again - but this time at a little faster pace.

Buen Camino.

Curt

Day 13 - Santiago De Compostela

I'm not sure that I was prepared for my last day on the Camino.  For the past 15 days, it's been a constant ritual of Get up at 6:30, pack all your gear back into your pack the way you took it out (don't forget to fill your camelback water bladder first or you'll be taking everything out again), Make sure you don't miss anything and then see if you can find a place in Spain that is open for breakfast.  as I've probably noted before, breakfast is always toast (extra dry hard and crunch bread), some for of jam and 'Cafe con letche'.  When we can find someone who will actually make a real breakfast - we usually take advantage of it.  Today, our Pension (which translates roughly to - cheap

Brenda, Jim and Dave on the Camino

European hotel), had breakfast included.  So I had a couple of small croissants that I overheated in the microwave, some fruit juice and an apple I had purchased from a supermarket in a town a day or two before.  Dave was with us as he had stayed in the same place as we did - even on the same floor.  We left the room and headed down the path - looking for the yellow arrow to start our last leg.  Very early the path was covered over in trees and it almost made you feel like you were being guarded.  The same blanket of fog that we had seen for the past few days was present making the air cool to start the walk.  I

Me entering Santiago

like it like this as you don't get over heated.  I told Brenda and Jim that I wanted to walk with them into the square since they were kind enough to let me intrude on their second Camino experience.  For the most part, I've been going ahead and then finding us a place to stay, texting the information back to Jim when I've go it.  There have been times when I've arrived 2 hours ahead of them.  I kinda like this because there is no question as to who gets the first shower!  Today, Brenda booked a place for two nights in Santiago as we were warned that more than 600 people a day were starting to show up in Santiago.  I can't imagine what this is like in the height of summer.  Dave and I zipped out ahead and I had noted to Brenda and Jim that I would stop and wait for them somewhere around the 5 Km to go mark and we would walk in together.   The picture shows me entering Santiago at a small memorial statue for the Camino.  Previous to this we came upon a gaggle of Irish ladies who we had seen a number of times along the way.  Brenda, Jim and I had taken their picture for them

View of Santiago

in an eating establishment we wandered into on night.  Dave got ahead of them and then turned around  and asked if any of the ladies wanted to help me carry my pack.  You just gotta love those Eastern Canadians.  I manged to get a fist bump from all of them and they passed on the 'luck of the Irish' to me but not to my traveling mate, Dave.  We were also walking with Frank, who had caught up to us at the first place we stopped for a snack along the way.

Eventually, I got as close as I felt I should and stopped at another place to wait for Brenda and Jim to come by.  Dave and and Frank went ahead.  At the place I was waiting, I ran across my Polish friend from Edmonton, Bogenna.  Her and her sister had also stopped there for lunch.  It was nice to see them again.  Brenda and Jim caught up and also grabbed some lunch.  When we were done we began the final 5/6 Km's into Santiago.  This is a nice modern city in Spain.  Most of the way up to the old part (Cathedral and Square) was through this city.  You could tell that the residents were used to seeing people constantly streaming into the area.  I guess over time you would just grow numb to all the activity.  We walked slowly as Brenda was struggling with her bad knees and just the fatigue of all the walking we had been doing.  We stopped a number of times to ensure we were going the right way (one doesn't want to add any extra steps to the journey - especially at this stage of the trek).  We made one more stop about 800 meters before the square (had my GPS on my phone going so that I could tell) and had an ice cream.

Walking into the square was almost a surreal expereince.  I know it's only been 15 days or 300 Km's, but when you start, you just have no idea what it will be like when you get to the end.  Many people were asking, "What are we going to do tomorrow if we are not walking?"

The cathedral itself has been undergoing some repair/restoration for quite a while now.  It was amazing to be able to stand there and know that for over 1000 years, pilgrim's have made this journey and ended up in this same place.  We hung around in this area for a while and decided to head for our hotel.  I really do smell like a Pilgrim right about now - and standing out in the warm mid-day sun was just baking it in.


As we were on our way we noticed the the Pilgrim's office was not lined up at all - so we went in and waited to receive our Compostela (certificate of completion for the

Comitalum Blais

Camino).  The lady who checked my Camino Passport, asked me where I started and then proceeded to validate the I had received the appropriate number of 'stamps' each day.  I was very careful to ensure that I had enough and for every day.  Frank later told us that while he was getting his Compostela, he overheard two older ladies who had started in Saria getting rejected for receiving the Compostela because they had not gotten all of the required stamps.  I'll bet that was frustrating, but in a small way I am glad that it's thorough as it makes mine more valuable (hey - they don't just GIVE these things away).  The first Compostela, the lady had written my last name first and then my first name after that.  I described to her that she had them reversed, and after a short discussion with the other clerk next to her - we got it sorted out.  She rote me a new Compostela with my first name in Latin and then my last name.  I'm not sure why they don't do your last name in Latin also.  Bought a cardboard tube to bring it home with a chance of it not getting too squished. This was a very cool moment.  I'm done.  No, I'm OFFICIALLY done!

We went to our hotel and got our rooms.  Apparently I'll have enough change rooms tomorrow due to some mixup.  It's fine by me given some of the places I've stayed over the past couple weeks.

About 3 days ago, I came up with the idea to let people know that  we were going to meet in the square between the Parador hotel and the Cathedral at 6:00 PM and then just go out for dinner as a one last get together as a group.  We wandered around to find a place that could take us and I guess that we may have about 25 people.  One place said that they would so at least we had a place to go.  The first wave of people was about 26 as we all strolled into this place.  By the time the evening was going strong - there were over 35 people there.  The poor waitress (there was only one when we all arrived) was running her feet off.  You could see the owner calling people, trying to get someone to come in and help.  I think it was a

great way to get all of us together for the last time.  It got very loud and it seemed like most people had a great time.  A few of us wandered off for some dessert to another establishment.  I can guarantee you that the 'after party' was going strong at another location as well.

I wanted to begin to sum up my experience on the Camino tonight - but I'm just too tired to do it any justice.  I think I'll let it brew for a little while longer.  What I can tell you is that it has been a life changing experience and I will not soon forget the people who I had the privilege of spending time with along the way.

Someone paid me a very kind compliment today.  They said, "If there were more people like you in the world, it would be a better place".  I don't know if that's true.  But what I do know is - I've been changed forever through my interactions with these humble Pilgrims.

Buen Camino

Curt

Day 12 - The Day Before Santiago

Even though the walk was long - it was satisfying to make it to Ribadiso.  As I mentioned before, getting here the day before meant that one did not have to walk the hill at the start of the next day.  I've been playing that card a lot - hoping to get myself out of trouble with the fellow traveling mates.

We had a great evening with a few friends that included Tony (from Australia) and Allan from Denmark.  Allan had a small incident on the Camino that day and was very glad to run into

 Brenda and Jim.  I guess somebody was just bothering him and would not leave him alone.  He eventually got away and nothing more came of it.  We all went out for dinner together and had a great evening learning about Denmark (and Australia).  The food was fantastic and the community was even better.  I needed to find a bank and withdraw a few more Euros as most of the Pensions that we were staying in did not take and for of credit card for payment.  I found one - but it was a long walk.  Now, normally I would not call 3 blocks a long walk - but after going as long as we did that day, it seemed like a long ways.  On my way back I stopped at a fruit/vegetable store (yes - they have places here that sell just

that) and bought myself an organge, apple and a cookie.  You just never know what breakfast will be like the next morning - so it's advised to be prepared.

The morning was stunningly beautiful.  With the mist in the air, and before the sun fully crests the horizon, it is very comfortable to be walking.  I can see why it's recommended that you get out early in the summer time as it can be very hot.  I think today it was expected to hit 25 degrees C. It's almost as though you are walking off into the great unknown with the notion that the fog will swallow you up.  I suppose that's how life can feel at times - it's as if you are walking off into the unknown - not being able to see very far ahead.  I am glad we can't see too far ahead in life and that we have to deal with things as we

encounter them.  I'm not sure we would go forward if we always knew that was coming.

The walk, as it has been for the last few stages was breathtaking at many places.  It took a fair amount of work to get ahead of the crowd - but once you did there was time to enjoy some of the natural beauty that the Camino has to offer.  Today we stumbled upon Eucalyptus trees (not pictured).  You can smell them before you actually see them. Jim mentioned that he found it resting many of the girls on the Camino were wearing the same perfume - until he found out that it was the fragrance from the young eucalyptus trees that he was noticing.

It was busy on the path today.  Once again I found it hard to watch those who are just walking from the minimum distance, not caring any of the belongings, and clearly not suffering in the same way.  Again, the Camino mirrors life.  How often are you working on something and others appear as if out of thin air.  They have not gone as far, worked as hard or (at least in your mind)

Crowd on the Camino

are less deserving.  I know that's not the case, as it is said - to each their own Camino.  However, I would say that although those folks will get a Compostela upon their arrival, I would say that they may have missed out on the best part of the Camino - and that is the powerful bonds that are formed.  As you walk, suffer and sometimes search for the path (I was off path today and a few folks called me back and pointed the way), you build friendships.  Friendships that will last for a long time.  It works the same way with God.  In order to get to know God, you have to walk with Him.  In order to walk with Him, you have to spend time in His word.  This is how we become "friends" of God.  No one gets to know someone without spending time with them.  There are people I've went by on the Camino and I could not call them my "friends", because I simply didn't spend any time with them.  I don't know their story.  I don't know why they are here or where they have come from.  But those I have hold a place deep in my heart.

For most of the day I walked with a new friend, his name is Frank and he's from Germany (North Germany actually).  Frank is about my age, with a 15 year old son and a wife back home.  He's

a Physio Therapist - and quite frankly, he probably should keep that information to himself.  If people knew, I'm sure he could pay for his entire trip just helping people with sore limbs (mostly legs).  It's kinda funny - as you cell tell who the Pilgrims are by watching them get up after they eat.  Everyone starts off quite slowly as you tend to stiffen up while sitting.  He also spent time in the German Army and a little at Fort Bragg near New Orleans. He only can take up to 10 days away as his patients can't be without him around for any longer than that; so that makes doing the Camino a tough experience.  I think he likes it - and I can bet you he'll be back to do other stages.

Frank is a fast walker - just the kind of guy I like to walk with.  We made amazing time and we're in Pedrouzo by about 1:30 in the afternoon.  He headed directly for his accommodation which he had booked online.  I figured I would follow and see what I could find in the area.  The place was a very nice Pension and I was able to get two rooms that shared a bathroom for 30 Euro each.  My room was not ready so I had about an hour wait while the poor girl who was taking care of the place scrambled between the phone, cleaning the place and dealing with those who were walking in.  She was so gracious and I was very thankful to get access to the room and a nice hot shower.  Never underestimate the rejuvenating power of running hot water.

After the shower, Frank and I searched for a place to have lunch - it was now about 2:00 PM.  We eventually found a baritone place that served "Hamberguesa", or hambergers.  We both had one.  The complete hamburger in Spain comes with e fried egg on it.  It's pretty good.  I may have to give this a try back home (when summer actually arrives in Edmonton).  Brenda and Jim texted me that they had arrived so I paid my bill and went back to give them a key.  We sat for a while with Ian and Joe (the gents from Australia).

Before I made my way upstairs, Dave came wandering around the corner.  This crazy guy from Ontario decided to put a 34 Km day in and catch up to us.  He had shipped Shirley to Santiago to wait for his arrival.  I eventually want upstairs and started my blog (actually uploading a few pictures from the day so that it would go faster when I started writing).  I also decided to lay down and have a short nap.  It's tough work walking 20 Km in a day!  Up waking, I made my way downstairs and Brenda and Jim were having a drink with Jeff and Maureen (Jeff girlfriend).  I joined them for a short while and then Brenda, Jim and me went to go find a place to eat dinner.  we stumbled across a huge group of people that we knew all gathered around a big table.  I could list the names, but it would become it's own paragraph.

Dave, Frank, Brenda Jim and I found a table at the same place and ordered dinner.  Great conversation.  More things I can't put in the blog about Dave!  Sigh.  I keep a separate journal of these items so that if I ever need them...well you know.  While we were at dinner Ron (you must now know that Ron is basically a legend on the Camino now) came over and sang a song for us - a song he made up along the way.  He's been adding verses as he meets new groups of people.  He had done the full version at the big table a little as away - which we heard most of.  He came over and sang us our verse.  I was struggling to not let my emotions take over when you heard Ron's voice break a little as he sang about his Alberta frineds.  It was an emotional few moments.  Ron is such a cool guy!

We met another new gent tonight - Sean from tasmania.  He and Manuel came over to our table for a while before we all headed to bed.  Tomorrow is going to be an interesting day as we all cross the threshold to the finish line.  Or is that the starting line?

Buen Camino

Curt

Day 11 - Octopus for Lunch

Another longer day on the trail but as you can see from the picture to he left, we are losing elevation as we go.  I can tell you that you would never know that as you walk!  There are places that are very heavy uphill climbs.  So much so that it almost always feels like you are walking up hill.

The morning was foggy, but you could just tell today was going to be a good weather day.  With the cool air and the mist in the morning, it was perfect to start off in shorts and the ol' double shirt (a Marino Wool one and a quick dry one over top).  The streets were dry, which was another thing we had not seen for a

View from the Window

while.  It's no wonder things are so green here - it rains a lot!  As I was getting ready I looked down and saw both Ann (78) and Ron (67) leaving separately.  Boy, those two get an early start.  I eventually caught up to Ron and passed him as I was by myself at that point.  He was with two ladies, which seems to be the case with him.  Ron knows a lot of people on this path.

The weather was incredible today.  No rain at all.  Although, the heat makes having water available a little more important.  I have not seen too many fountains for the last few stages.  I really liked these as I would fill my portable small bottle and then drink it all so I would not have to use the water in my Camel Back. I am not complaining - just trying to describe the difference between walking in the rain and walking in the warm sun.  Tomorrow is supposed to get even warmer.

After I walked ahead of Brenda and Jim I came across this man who was walking slowly.  As is the custom when you pass someone on the Camino, you wish them a "Buen Camino".  I did this and when he answered - it sounded like he was and English speaking individual.  I asked him,  "Do you speak English?"  And he replied he did.  So we began to chat.  Who would have thought that I would have to come all the way to Spain, walk over 250 Km's (thus far) to talk to a gentleman from Edmonton.  This is Jeff.  He builds a few homes in Edmonton.  We had a great chat about the difficulties of building homes in Edmonton and shared some horror stories about trades as well as some of the good stories.  We also had a longer chat about Prostate cancer.  It appears as though this may be something that he may be facing in the near future.  I'm glad I could pass on some of my experiences.  His comment to me was that he learned more in the the last 30 minutes than he has talking to the doctors for a few weeks.  He started his walk in Saria and his girlfriend is driving a car from place to place - getting the hotel when she arrives and texting him the info.  He was pretty sore.  I told him that it would subside in a few days.  As he mentioned this I thought this might be a fun thing to do with my wife and maybe one other couple.  Me and the guy could do the walk, and Lauren and the girl could drive to the next destination and get things arranged.  Who knows...

There were many sights to see along the way.  This cross had a numberfrom rocks left behind on it.  I guess the folks who started from Saria would not have been to the Iron Cross - the place many stones get left behind at.

You see many of these structures along with the farm houses along the way.  One of them was open today and showed that it houses corn.  I guess then leave it in there to dry and to protect it from animals who would eat it if it were left outside.

Lunch today was at a very well known place in Melide.  It's a place that specializes in Pulpo - Aka Octopus.  When you walk in the door you can see them cooking them in large pots at the front of the establishment.  I watched the cook remove one of them with a set of tongs and then use what looked like a large pair of scissors to cut the tentacles into quarter size pieces.  They then season it with a spicy smoked paprika and salt, along with some olive oil.  Wow.  They were fantastic.  Brings a whole new meaning to a meal that 'sticks to your ribs'.  It was Goken who recommended this place - and it was truly fantastic.  I actually started beside the two Australian gents I met a few days before while I had mine (Ian and Joe).

In the middle of my journey today I came across another Roman bridge.  These things are amazing.  It's hard to believe that something can be built by human hands and last over a thousand years.  Quite the structure!  The last hour of my journey I had caught up to a lady that Ron introduced me to - her name is April.  She's a physicians aide in Ohio and has walked the Camino from France (all 800 KM's).  It was interesting to get her perspective on crossing over the mountains at the France/Spain border.  We came to Rabidiso and she stopped at the local Albergue.  I checked, but there were no private rooms - so I carried on up the hill to the next place - Arzua.  I was not a popular person as this made the journey nearly 28 Km's today.  Although I bargained my way back into the good books by giving some extra strength Tylenol and a few Peptobismol chews.  There is also the fact that we won't have to walk up the large Hill that leads into this city in the morning.

Only two more days until Santiago.  It's hard to believe that we have some this far.  We have been telling people that anyone who gets to Santiago on Monday, that we will meet at the central cathedral at the entrance facing the Paradox (hotel) at 6:00 PM and go for dinner together as a celebration of completing the Camino.  It will be interesting to see who shows up.

Tomorrow is a shorter day - less than 20 KM.

Thanks for the information Blue Monk.  May utilize some of that.

Buen Camino

Curt

Day 10 - Long Day; Nice Walk

The hills started early today as we left PortoMarin.  Early on the way out I ran into Lady Sarah, Sir Anthony and Dave.  Shirley was transported by Taxi (I think) to the next location and would be waiting there for the others to show up.  Lady Sarah has been having troubles with her new iPhone - watching the wheel spin as it tries to upload the large pictures to the iCloud.  I have found that the Internet service is touch-and-go here.  Some places you get good signal and lots of bandwidth; others - not so much.  I couldn't help much - but just listened.  As we got a little further up the hill, Lady Sarah indicated that I should go on as she was going to slow down a little.

I had the great pleasure to walk most of my day with Dave.  Although he is from

 Eastern Canada, I tried not to hold it against him.  Found out later that he was born in Calgary.  I'm not sure what worse combination I could get - a native Calgarian and

now a Torontonian.  I know he's going to read this so, Dave, careful how you comment or some of the things we talked about today that were OFF limits for the blog - may end up in it.  Actually, what I would have to say about Dave (and Shirley for that matter) is that they are extremely genuine and kind people.  I would have no trouble being their next door neighbor (if it was in Western Canada that is).  We hit a lot of subjects today, many of them personal.  I am going to have to go to therapy to have the image of Dave in a fishnet shirt and shorts removed from my memory banks. I feel a little like "Jack" in the movie "The Way".  

One guy I ran into again today was Brian, and this time I made sure to get a photo with him.  Brian and I walked up to O'ceierbo together in what was a torrential

downpour, mixed with Gail force winds.  I am pretty sure it snowed a little as well as we attempted to make the accent through what was now a river of mud and horse poop.  Brian was wearing running shoes and as I first came upon him - I watch him attempting to tip-top up the hill - trying not to get his feet too wet.  This was a loosing game.  we passed each other a few times and in both instances I think we were in shock.  I will never forget Brian looking at me as we attempted to check into the same accommodation and saying, "Can you believe that?"  We both were drenched, water dropping from our faces.  I created a puddle just standing at the counter of rain water running down my clothes.  I think we are now O'ceierbo brothers.  Brothers for life.

I am finding it hard to know at to take pictures of as I walk.  Most of the scenery is stuff that I have seen all along.  Green fields, trees, winding roads, stacked rock

dwellings.  All these things you have seen before in the various pictures that I posted.  The scenery is stunning to say the least and the trails wind through various parts of it.  I like it when it leads through a grove of mature trees.  They protect you from the wind/rain/sun (depending on what is happening at that very moment).  The weather here reminds me of that in Alberta.  If you don't like it - wait 5 minutes.  Today we had a little rain - enough to make Dave and I stop and put on our rain jackets.  We only had them on for about half an hour and it had slowed enough for us to be able to remove them and continue on.  Looking at the picture to the right - you couldn't tell you were not in BC.  The trail was much busier now as there have been a lot of people joining in from Sarria.  This is the closest point that you can walk the Camino and get a Compostela (certificate of completion). It's a little hard to watch some of these people in shorts and T-shirts, walking with a tiny little bag and running shoes go down the path.  Their bags are taken by taxi/bus to the next hotel which was booked for them.  I kinda like my Camino experience knowing that I Cary everything I need (except food of course).  I guess each person's Camino is their own.  It's funny to see them hobbling around the destination when they get arrive.  You remember back to your first few days when the stiffness and soreness was almost unbearable.  I still get sore - it's just that it goes away a little faster than when I started.

It was a 24.8 Km day (27.0 if you adjust for the ascent) and I was feeling pretty good.  Dave and I walked together until Eirexe which was where Shirley was waiting for

him at the hotel they had reserved.  They are still deciding what to do as a result of Shirley's swolen knee.  Dave found Shirley and she came out and we had lunch together.  This would be the last day I think we will see them as we were going another 7 Km's further that day.  If we are lucky - we may see them in Santiago on Tuesday - they day after we arrive there (monday).  Dave bought lunch (thank-you again Dave) and after a handshake from Dave and a hug from Shirley I was on my way.  This time alone.  For the first time since I started the Camino, I grabbed my iPod, and popped my ear buds in and listened to music while I walked.  Most of the other times there were people around to talk to.  It was nice - and I picked up the pace as I listened to a couple of up beat songs.  It was kinda nice to just walk on my own.  I can see why people come to the Camino by themselves and just walk - because you are never really alone.

Arrived in Palms de Rei well before Brenda and Jim.  Found us a nice Casa with a private room for three for 55 Euro.  Tell me where you can find a room in Canada for 25 Canadian Dollars?  I have noticed that the price of things here in Spain is very resonable.  It would be a neet place to come back to and visit (with my wife of course).  Had a shower, washed a few articles of clothing in the bath tub using my body wash for the soap.  ditched the other soap I had because I was trying to lighten my pack.  Brian (who I introduced you to earlier) has a method he uses to clean his clothes.  He puts a little extra shampoo in his hair and then he was he his hair with his underware.  You read that correctly.  His underware.  Not sure I'm even going to attempt that!

Went out for dinner to a nearby place and I had a Spanish omlet.  The waiter warned

me that it was big.  It was.  Very big.  8 eggs.  I barely finished it.  However, plenty of calories stored up for tomorrow - another 25 Km day.  Ron, the missionary guy who is walking the Camino to raise money for his inner city mission in New Jersy, said that when he gets home he's going to write a book and call it: "How to loose weight, the Camino Way".  You just need to walk 25 Km every day and then you can eat whatever you want.  Truly - my fit bit is registering that I'm burning somewhere between 5000 and 5500 calories a day.

It's a little sad to realize that this will come to an end (if all goes well) in three days.  It's has been an amazing experience.  I'm not sure I've processed it all yet - and it may take me some time to do that.  What I can say is that I'm very glad I came.  We might try and organize a small dinner for those who have we've in and out of our story for Monday as one last hooray before we all go about separate ways.

I need to share one more picture with you that Jim took of Ron and me.   I started to laugh when I saw it and realized that it looked like I was walking with one of the guards from the vatican.  That Ron is a crazy guy!

Until tomorrow.

Buen Camino

Curt