For the last two days it's been raining when we leave. This is a bit of a pain for me as my rain pants don't fit over my boots and I have to take off my boots to don/remove them. So, today started out wearing all the rain gear. Why has typically happened is that it will slow down and stop raining shortly after you start walking. then you are hot so you have to stop and remove things. That means removing the pack, then the coat, then the boots and then the pants. This can happen a few times during the day depending on the weather. Don't take that the wrong way - as it's nice and cool for the longer walks. Today we made it as car as Trabedelo (as you can see on the map). There were three possible routes and the one we chose was the flatest one. It still goes up and down but just less than the others. As for tomorrow, we will have a significant climb up to O'cebreiro.
The walk today was stunningly beautiful (even in the rain). We walked through acres and acres of grape fields. The one on the left was postcard worthy. I am taking the pictures with my phone in a special case I bought from MEC. It is like a zip lock bag to protect it from the rain. The hills roll gentle and the sky seems larger than at home. At one point on our way out of our last stay, we got a little lost and we're standing in a traffic circle trying to find the way markers. We really must have looked confused because two separate vehicles stopped, rolled down their windows, and in spanning tried to tell us that we were not on the right road. This is a little like life. Sometimes you loose your way if you are not watching for the signs. The people here are so friendly! Once we got back on the right road - we had to watch carefully for the intersection that would take us on the flat way. There are three ways to go this stage - the other two are large climbs. Honestly, it's not the climb that is the problem, it's the descent that is really hard on the legs. I'm probably going to loose the nail on my big toe on my left foot due to the pressure of going down the hills.
We walked further and passed through a village with another Templar Castle. These things are huge. I wish we could have gone and seen the one on Ponferada - but yesterday we were absolutely exhausted from the long walk. We tried to stop at a hotel, but it was full. The next place was 5 Km ahead - but it was not open - so another 5 Km. My feet were killing me. You don't want to get lost as it's steps you wouldn't have to take in the day.
Today I mastered my walking poles. I was not using them correctly, and only found out watching a young guy we met the night before walk with his. He'll put on 30 Km plus a day. Once I got this figured out - I could see how much of a help it is! Mr. Truman (a close friend of mine who is a recovering American) lent me a set of poles that I left at home. Yes - I know - I had no idea what I was doing when I did that. Fortunately , early in our trip, I saw a set in the window of a store. We had stopped for breakfast a block further and something was telling me to go back and look at them. As I waited for my food - I zipped back and had a good look. They were 6.95 Europe each. Poles I looked at from ME were $190 plus. These cheap poles had been a life saver! You can use some strength in your upper body to help propell you forward. You can also use them to slow you down a little on the down side of the hills (rather than let you legs and toes take all the punishment). I was told how much they would help - but I didn't listen. Mr. Truman - you were most definitely right (but don't let that admission go to your head).
As we continued along the way, a couple of Bulgarian girls were coming back towards us. They were unsure if they were on the right path and look rather worried. We asked what was the matter and they indicated that they had not seen an arrow (the Camino is marked with yellow arrows all along the way) for a while and we're worried they were on the wrong path. We had just looked at our map and we're pretty sure that we were going the right way. I walked ahead for 150 meters or so and found another arrow. They seemed very releived.
For most of the day we were following a river. I had now mastered my poles and was
walking quite a bit further a head of Brenda and Jim when I came upon a spot where the river was acessible. I stopped. This reminded me of the times I went out to my paternal grandparents acreage in BC and would stop around Revelstoke and go down to the stream to cool off our feet. Here I am on the trip of a lifetime and I'm staring longingly at the water. I'm going down. So, I scramble down the bank, remove my excessively heavy pack and find the perfect rock to sit on to peel off my boots and my socks. Ahhhhhhhh. the water is frigid - and perfect! Nothing is nicer on a pair of tired Camino feet than to dip them in an ice cold stream! Jim and Brenda arrived and are down the bank to join me. I'm certain (and Brenda will support this), that this little break on our journey made the rest of the day much easier. Another life lesson - when was the last time you stopped to put your feet in the cold water? Maybe now is the time.
Pray for us tomorrow as the climb will be strenous. We looked at our schedule today and it appears as though we are on track to make it to Santiago on Monday Next week. That will be perfect. As long as we stay healthy and injury free - I think we will make it.
I am sore every day. each morning I don't know how I'm going to make to the desired destination. By taking one step at a time - we eventually get there. If you struggle today - don't worry about days ahead - just work at the next minute. Another will follow and you can repeat your success again.
It's late - I got to get to bed. I hope it's not raining tomorrow.
Buen Camino
Curt
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